Driveways
Lots and larger areas
Surface damage
Structural
Is it worth repairing
Crack work and materials
Timing and cost
Who we work for
Planning and budget
Crack filling
Cracks are not a cosmetic problem. They are the route water takes to the layer that holds your surface up, and sealing them is the smallest amount of money that changes how long everything above lasts.
Reading a crack
A single line running the length of a drive is usually shrinkage, and it is the ideal candidate: narrow, stable and easy to seal. Lines running across the surface are commonly from the ground moving with the seasons and behave much the same way.
A grid of rectangles, sometimes called block cracking, means the asphalt itself has aged and gone brittle. Filling the lines still keeps water out, but it is maintenance on a surface approaching the end rather than a repair that resets the clock.
Where cracks have joined into small interconnected pieces, sealing is no longer the answer. The base has already failed and that area needs cutting out. Telling the two apart takes about ten seconds once you know what you are looking at, and it decides whether repair is still economic.
How sealing runs
Wide, narrow, stable and failing are treated differently, and some are left alone because sealing them would be spending on a surface that is past it.
Cracks past a certain width are cut to a consistent channel so the sealant has a reservoir to sit in rather than a thin smear across the top.
Dust, vegetation and moisture are blown out. Sealant applied over any of the three bonds to the debris instead of to the asphalt and lifts out in sheets.
The sealant is run in to the surface level and left to set, which is quick enough that most drives are usable the same day.
Timing and season
Late summer and early autumn is the window. The surface is dry, cracks are at their widest because the asphalt has expanded in the heat, and the work is finished before the first freeze arrives to exploit anything still open.
Spring is the second-best option and is often reactive, because a winter has just shown everybody where their cracks are. It still works, but some of the damage the sealing was meant to prevent has already happened underneath.
Deep winter is the one to avoid. Sealant needs a dry surface above a certain temperature to bond, and work booked in the cold either does not stick or is a temporary measure. The hot rubber version is what larger surfaces use, and it goes on before any sealcoat. The two jobs share a cycle.
Related repairs
Sealing is usually the first item on a longer list.
The heavier version used on lots and larger areas, where a flexible hot-applied sealant handles wider movement.
Learn moreWhat an unsealed crack becomes after a winter of water getting into the layer below it.
Learn moreThe coat that goes on afterwards. Sealer poured across an open crack sinks in and leaves a visible line.
Learn moreWhere crack sealing fits in the maintenance cycle, and how the two jobs are normally scheduled together.
Learn moreCommon questions
Cracks routed, cleaned and filled with hot rubber before winter. The spring damage was a fraction of the year before.
They told me which cracks were worth filling and which were cosmetic. Did only the ones that mattered.
Crack filling and a sealcoat instead of a replacement. The driveway looks fine and the price was a fraction.
The filler was applied hot and over-banded, not squeezed from a tube. It is still in the cracks two winters on.
From the blog
Next step
We will tell you which cracks are worth sealing, which are too far gone, and what the whole surface needs if sealing is no longer the right answer.
Crack sealing is quoted separately from any coating work.