Driveways
Lots and larger areas
Surface damage
Structural
Is it worth repairing
Crack work and materials
Timing and cost
Who we work for
Planning and budget
Asphalt resurfacing
Resurfacing puts a new wearing layer over the surface you already have. It only works where the ground underneath has not moved, which is why the honest version of this service includes being told when it is not an option.
When it works
The test is whether the ground has moved. A surface that is grey, worn and carrying separate cracks has aged on top while the base held, and a bonded layer over it will behave like a new surface for years.
Where the cracking has joined into a connected network, the base has already lost strength, and an overlay reflects that pattern straight back through within a season or two. That surface needs removal and replacement instead.
Between the two sits the common case of a sound surface with a few bad patches. Those are cut out and rebuilt first, then the overlay goes over the lot. Working out which case you have is the whole decision.
How it runs
Cracking pattern, ponding and any sunken areas are checked. This is the step that decides whether resurfacing is honest or a way of selling cheap work twice.
Failed patches are cut out and rebuilt, and open cracks are sealed, because both will otherwise mirror themselves through the new layer.
Where the new layer would stand proud of a garage, a kerb or a drain, the existing surface is milled down so the finished height still works.
A bonding coat goes down first so the layers behave as one, then the new asphalt is laid hot and rolled to density like any other surface.
Why it costs less
The expensive half of a paving job is everything that happens before the asphalt arrives: breaking out the old surface, carting it away, and rebuilding the granular layer underneath. An overlay skips all of it.
Disposal is the clearest saving. Nothing comes out, so nothing has to be hauled or tipped, and that line on a comparable replacement quote simply is not there.
The catch is that it is not always available, and a contractor who offers it on a failed base is selling you the same square metre twice. The signs that rule it out are visible without any equipment at all, and the age of the surface usually tells you which conversation you are about to have.
Related work
The repairs that have to happen before an overlay is worth laying.
Failed sections cut out and rebuilt before the overlay, because anything left soft will print straight through the new layer.
Learn moreOpen cracks sealed first. An unsealed crack reappears in the same line within a season of the new surface going down.
Learn moreThe alternative where the base has gone. More expensive, and the only thing that actually lasts on a surface that has failed from below.
Learn moreHow to work out which side of the line your surface sits on before anyone quotes you for either.
Learn moreCommon questions
Resurfacing over a sound base. They milled the edges so the new layer sits flush with the garage floor and the street.
They checked the base first and said resurfacing would hold. It has. No reflective cracking after two winters.
The overlay was two inches, compacted properly, and the transition at the sidewalk has no lip you can feel underfoot or in the car.
Honest that resurfacing would not fix the sunken corner, so they repaired that first and overlaid the rest.
From the blog
Next step
A short site visit tells you whether an overlay will hold or whether the base has already gone. Both answers come with a figure, so you can compare them against each other.
Where an overlay would fail, we will say so rather than quote for it.